A stuck screw can prove to be the ultimate nuisance, the proverbial "thorn in one's side" as craftsmen strive to complete a project or repair. Stuck and stubborn screws are generally caused by rust and corrosion that accumulates and sticks around the screw's body. To release the screw, you must break it loose from the corrosion that binds it. To achieve this breakaway, try these five sure-fire extraction methods and you should have that stuck screw un-stuck in no time. 1.) Chemical Removal: Chemical removal methods are the first, most gentle techniques to try. To dissolve the binding corrosion you can apply a number of easily accessible products: lemon juice, hydrogen peroxide, and even Coke or Pepsi can loosen a stuck screw. Any anti-corrosive solution works better when left to soak into the screw-hole, because of this, even if the chemical doesn't release the screw, it softens it up for the next removal step(s). If you tap the screw while applying rust remover, it may help the chemical to penetrate further into the screw-hole releasing more of the screw. Once you've let your solution set into the screw, attempt to loosen it once more. Remember not to use a solution that could stain or damage the material housing your frozen screw. 2.) By Force/Impact: Before beginning this process be certain you have the correct sized screwdriver. A wrong sized screwdriver can strip the head off your frozen screw and amplifty the supreme annoyance of screw extraction. If you can move the screw at all try to tighten it - in doing so you may break the screw free from the corrosion holding it in place. If you can't move the screw but its head is slightly elevated, you may be able to grip, and turn the screw with vice grips or pliers. If, however, the screw's head is not sticking up, you may try inserting the screwdriver in the the screw's head slots. Lock your pliers or vice grips to the top of the screwdriver shaft, and while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver, and using the vice grips as leverage, try turning the screw. This additional leverage/force may break it free. You may also try hitting the screwdriver with a hammer (while the screwdriver is inserted into the screw's head). Remember to do this lightly so as to not destroy the tip of your screwdriver. If you can, also try hitting the screwdriver while turning it - this combination of impact and rotation should break the screw free from adhesion. 3.) Heat/Cold: Before using temperature extraction methods, be certain the material housing the screw can withstand temperature changes. That said, you can use a propane or butane torch to heat and consequently expand the screw. You can also use a soldering iron or even a hot glue gun (without glue) to heat up a frozen screw. The expansion should allow you joggle and reverse the screw free. If the material around the screw can not tolerate heat, cold temperatures, although less effective, may work for you. Keep ice on the screw's head - if accessible, dry ice is most effective. When the screw is sufficiently cold try turning again. Note: If you choose to heat up your screw - don't apply lubricating oils (as they are flammable) to the screw until it has entirely cooled. You may need to repeat heat and cold cycles several times to break the screw loose. Always be mindful when using temperature extraction methods - both can cause severe burns when not careful. 4.) Destruction: If you absolutely have to get the screw out, and it still has not budged, you can attempt to destroy the screw. These methods are generally reserved for last resorts and craftsmen must be mindful to keep the screw hole intact. If the screw hole becomes damaged it is much more difficult to replace that stuck, rusted, and stubborn screw. First: place a steel punch or small chisel slightly off-center in the screw's head-slots. Repeatedly hit (with a hammer) the top of the punch or chisel counter-clockwise (remember, righty tighty - lefty loosy). Several impacts should effectively loosen the screw. You may also try drilling out the screw. When drilling out a screw, keep your drill bit dead-center. If you have access to left handed drill bits these put more turning pressure on the stuck screw as it turns. Eventually the screw should begin to turn and release. 5.) Drastic Measures: These are definitely last resorts, however, screws with a totally stripped or broken head may be impossible to remove without a "screw extractor." A screw extractor is a marvelous little device (only about $5 - $10) with a square head and reverse tapered cutting screw threads on the other end. The square head is built to be fastened to a T Handle but also works with an adjustable wrench or vice grips. After a pilot hole has been pre-drilled into the stuck screw, the counter-clockwise threads are designed to screw backward into the screw's body. The extractor digs into the damaged screw, begins to turn it, and ,at last, releases it from the grasps of corrosion. Be extremely cautious not to break-off the screw extractor inside your stuck screw. If this happens, you're basically, well... stuck. If a screw extractor can't get the job done, and you are now more hell-bent than ever to get that screw out, there is one last option. Spark erosion. Spark erosion, or electrical discharge machining is a technique that utilizes rapid repetitions of electrical discharge to disintegrate metals. This method effectively melts, or dissolves the screw while leaving the screw hole and surrounding materials unharmed and intact. Spark erosion machines are truly impressive, but are also pretty difficult to gain access to. In order to utilize spark erosion you must find a service that provides this type of machining. In the long run it may not be worth the hassle. Keep trying, show that screw who's the boss, and persistence will prove the most effective method for success. Removing stuck screws can be an immeasurable hassle, but one of these methods is bound to loosen that pesky screw. Good luck, and always be cautious!

If you're a skateboarder, then you know how important wheels are. There are many, many types of skateboard wheels out in the world. What kind of skateboard wheels does a skater want? This short guide should help you generate a much better understanding of the many different kinds of wheels out there. The very first item you must to understand about wheels is that they can be bought in different hardness's. Skaters call this 'hardness' the wheel's Shore D, or durometer. The durometer scale comes in two types. The D scale is used on harder materials, while the A scale is used for softer materials, such as the polyurethane used in a skateboard wheel. You have to choose a durometer depending on what you desire in a skateboard wheel. One rule to follow is that 78a to 88a are great cruising or longboarding wheels, as they are extremely soft wheels that can roll over bumps very easily, while 88a to 97a or higher typically make good wheels for street skaters. These harder wheels give a tiny bit more control of the board, and give the skater more velocity on smooth skating spots, such as the concrete in a skatepark. A harder wheel is also less likely to develop a flatspot if you are a powerslider. The next feature you have to look at in a wheel is the shape of it. There are a couple different shapes of wheels, and each is designed for a different purpose. A 'free ride' wheel is your every day skateboard wheel. Freeride wheels have rounded edges and a rounded front, which makes getting off ledges or coping much easier than it would be if you had conical wheels with a flat back. Downhill longboarders often use soft freeride wheels because it makes it easier to go down a hill. The beveled edges also give you some extra grip whilst carving. The other type of wheel is the conical wheel. Conical wheels have a reverse volcano shape to them, with a cubed back. (If that doesn't make sense, do a quick image search and you will know what I'm talking about.) Conical wheels are often used for street longboarders, as they're light weight and ride on the street very well. Since they're lightweight, a cruiser or longboarder won't have to push as often as they would with a full wheel. Next you'll have to think about is the diameter of the wheel. Normal skateboard wheels usually come in sizes from 50 to 54mm. Skateboard wheels aren't often made much smaller than 50mm, as they get too tiny to be useful. Larger wheels are often utilized on longboard or cruiser boards; many longboarders like to utilize a softer wheel that is around 59 to 60mm. Longboarders use larger wheels than street boarders because it makes it easier to roll over bumps or cracks in the street. Extreme downhill longboarders will often buy even larger wheels - up to 65mm or more - because of the speed increase. The larger the wheel, the more speed you will gain on a hill. The final step you must follow in buying your wheels is to assess what's available to you at your local skateboard shop, and then buy the wheel that is going to suit your needs. If you're a street cruiser, you may want to look at getting some 78a 60mm conical wheels. If you are a skatepark skater, you will probably need wheels that are small and hard - 97a 52mm wheels would do nicely. Before you buy the wheels you're looking at, find out if you can try out a board that has the wheels you were checking out on it. A few skateboard shops have skateboard decks that they will be happy to let you try out. In conclusion, we talked about what the durometer of a wheel is, how the shape is a factor, and the differences in diameter. If you're still confused after reading all this info, head down to your local skateboard shop. They will be happy to help out a fellow skater.

Since the population of human beings is increasing at a faster rate, the number of apartments and buildings are also increasing. As a result of which the rats and mice have no option other than depending on human beings. The rats and mice depend on the food wastes from restaurants, hotels and homes which are put in dust bins and garbage. Other than these they use to accommodate in the house gardens, courtyards and even inside the houses. From here the rats use to get sufficient amount of food items as well as shelter. The rats also breed in the houses and cause an increase in rat's population if not properly controlled. So it is essential to stop mice population. There are different techniques and methods to kill the rats and mice and stop mice from entering the houses. So apart from these harsh methods, there exists a simpler method which simply drives the rat and mice away from houses instead of killing them brutally. This simpler method is the use of rodent repellents which performs the same function as the pests and insect repellents. Before making a rush to buy the rodent repellents we must clearly know all the requirements which the repellents must have. The rat repellent must not contain any toxic, chemical or poisonous constituents. While using the rodent repellents it must not cause any kind of side effect to human skin as well as other parts of the body including the inhaling organs. To say it simply, the rodent repellent must be totally eco friendly and made from natural organisms and constituents. It must be basically a spray item which when sprayed must reach towards the far end corners of the room. It must be capable of being used in homes, offices, restaurants. The rat repellents must mainly have good fragrance and must not cause any kind of suffocation when sprayed inside the rooms. These repellents must be effective for many days after it is being sprayed and should be able to maintain its effectiveness whenever it is sprayed. Before launching the product the manufacturers must carry out all the experiments so that the repellents will be totally poison less and pollution less. The rat repellents should be basically the repellents not the killers. It should not kill or hurt the rat and mice and should be able to prevent or stop mice from making damages. These rat repellents must simply drive away the rats from the houses, courtyards, go downs and farm lands at the same instant when it inhales the smell of rat repellents. The repellents should have such a smell that would cause fear in the rats as if they are going to be attacked by their predators. These rat repellents must have the essence of rat's biggest predator that is the cats and this fragrance should not be able to be smelt by humans. The rat repellents must be available in small cans or tins which can be easily stored. The rat repellents must be available at affordable prices as compared to the rat killer equipment.